A certain type of restaurant doesn’t make a big announcement. There isn’t a famous chef involved. No dramatic press release. It’s just a sign that says, “Rare is coming,” and it’s taped to a closed door. It turns out that the person who opened the place is reflected in that quiet confidence.
Tamara Tattersall and Alex Piatrou have worked in Delaware’s coastal dining scene for years, paying close attention as employees rather than as proprietors. Piatrou entered the country more than sixteen years ago on a J-1 student visa and never really left. He was drawn into the local restaurant scene in a way that either exhausts or draws people in. It drew him in closer. When Tom Holmes took over 1776 in 2007, Tattersall, a native of Chile, was the first employee he hired. At the time, the steakhouse in the Rehoboth area was still establishing itself as one of the most popular restaurants on the Delmarva coast.
Understanding that link to 1776 is important because it influences every aspect of their conversation about Rare. They’re not attempting to duplicate it. Nor are they attempting to outrun it. Tattersall stated, “They will always be family,” and it sounds like she means it rather than being a diplomatic ploy. However, there’s a feeling that working inside someone else’s vision for an extended period of time eventually helps you recognize the contours of your own.
The former Ocean Grill and Bar in the Villages of Five Points, close to Lewes, has been taken over by Rare for reasons other than just availability. The region is expanding. The kind of people who want a proper dinner out—tablecloths, real wine, and a room that takes itself seriously without being cold about it—have been gradually moving in. Piatrou stated, “Lewes needs something like this,” and it’s difficult to disagree. Anyone who has been paying attention can see the difference between casual beachside dining and a truly elevated experience.
The biography of the partnership is most prominently displayed on the menu. The wine program and flavors showcase Tattersall’s South American heritage. Growing up in Belarus, where potatoes are more of a cultural institution than a side dish, Piatrou intends to use them prominently, purposefully, and not as an afterthought. “We’ll have the same quality steaks, but elevated from 1776,” he stated. Saying that about a restaurant that they publicly refer to as family is daring. However, it’s also sincere, and that kind of measured ambition is refreshing.
There will be a private dining area reserved for groups, and the interior will accommodate about 127 people. According to Tattersall, the design is timeless, with tablecloths and a romantic ambiance that still appeals to families. It’s possible that this is precisely what the Five Points corridor has been lacking: a space that exudes an occasion without the need for one.
Along with a slogan contest they started early, their pineapple logo has already been making the rounds on social media. According to Piatrou, the pineapple is a symbol with roots in traditional dining that stands for hospitality and fine cuisine. It remains to be seen if the branding will resonate with locals, but the inclination to develop an identity prior to opening day implies a consideration of how eateries earn their position in a community.
As this develops, it’s difficult to avoid the impression that Rare is based more on observation than on innovation. “We dine at neighborhood eateries. We can see what’s lacking and what needs to be adjusted,” Piatrou remarked. That’s not the language of a trend-follower. That’s the vocabulary of someone who has spent enough time in the room to pick up on details that most diners never express but always sense. It always takes time to determine whether a new restaurant can turn that kind of accumulated instinct into something long-lasting. However, the foundation appears authentic, which is noteworthy in this area of coastal Delaware.
