It was not really planned. Around day four, while sitting at a plastic table in Olhão and observing a man fan charcoal with a folded newspaper, the…

A good Niçoise salad transitions from feeling like diet food to feeling like something you’d order at a little restaurant by the water in Nice, usually around…

After the third bend in Bayou Lafourche, there’s a point at which your phone’s GPS just stops working. A guide by the name of Skip (or Romy,…

Eating fish in a picturesque setting can lead to a certain kind of disappointment. The plate that arrives tastes like it was frozen for a year somewhere…

You realize you’ve left the version of the coast that everyone talks about at a certain point along Lankford Highway, after the pine stands open up into…

Something heavier than normal is coming off the trucks this week on a portion of Virginia’s Eastern Shore where pony herds still roam the marshes and the…

When the shrimp boats remain docked, a certain silence descends upon Bayou Dulac. The only movement is caused by gulls circling low over water that should be…

On the evening of June 23rd, a distinct odor permeates the Lithuanian countryside; it is not woodsmoke from the bonfires, though that is a contributing factor. Fish,…